Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
